How to Paint a Blaster

This guide was originally posted on 2019-10-30.

Basics for a Paint Mod, if taking apart

I was asked to do a write up on how I paint my mods. Am not much for words but am more of a visual person. So there will be A LOT of pics. :)

This is a basic paint job, DieselPunk which is similar to Steampunk. It's clearer, no cogs (gears), yet has the metallic & neutral/ earth tone colours, like Steampunk.

Take a Sharpie & make off the areas that will be seen on the trigger & hammer.
Remove logos (this is a personal choice) and add scarring. I use a pretty coarse dremel bit to sand off the logos & make the scarring.
Then I take a shoe tote, put a strip of masking tape, to put the screws on (can use magnet strip if you want, that has an adhesive side) I remove the screws & put them on the strip in the shoe tote in the order I take them out. This is good practice for when you get into the bigger blasters, because not all the screws are the same size & length. I use the totes so I can work on multiple blasters at a time & don't get the piece mixed up & I can stack the totes. I usually work in batches of 5-8 blasters at a time.
I take apart the blaster, that way I can better detail it. And can paint multiple pieces at the same time, in different boxes on my balcony. Box for Silver pieces, box for brass pieces, box for black pieces, etc. I use a small Phillips head screwdriver, - you can buy a set on Amazon or go to Hardware store.
Using 220 or 320 grade sandpaper to give the plastic a bit of tooth, so the spray paint grab on. Just a quick once over.
The next steps are completely up to you - on how to want to tape off & what colours to use. Always remember – paint light colours 1st, then the dark colours. This is because if you paint the dark colours 1st, if you make a mistake or change your mind on the colour scheme you want – darker colours are harder to cover up.
Tape off the areas you want to colour & then paint. You can Prime if you want, Especially if the blaster is a dark base & you want to paint a lighter colour like yellow or white (if the blaster is blue or red – that will 'bleed' through – so a coat or two of Primer would be a good way to go. :)\
Check the weather – see what you are up against, if you paint outside, like I do. Read the back of the spray paint can – so you can have a game plan. Rustoleum works good in 50+ degree weather with med-low humidity. Krylon is needs to around 60+ & low humidity to work properly. And Vinyl Dyes require 70+ to work properly.
***so yea, didn't take my own advice about the weather & humidity, but luckily working on Dieselpunk/ Steampunk Mods – when the paint wrinkles...yes, wrinkles – I just use it to my advantage. That doesn't work to my advantage when I'm working on Video Game inspired blasters – so I have to be absolutely sure the weather is going to cooperate :/ You want a nice, flat, clean paint job.

Before I get my hands on the blaster – before they know what they are getting into - hahah

I have a box, edges cut, so the lights can fit – this is to catch all the plastic bits I'm about to sand off! First time, didn't use a box – crap went everywhere. :( I did try sitting on the balcony & doing this, but it echoes through the neighborhood!! I was VERY self-conscious about that. I don't like disturbing people; I know I like quiet :)

Precision screwdriver set with case – around $6

Paint the Light colours first. That way if you make a mistake or change your mind on the colour scheme, light colours are easier to cover than dark ones.

This is Rust-oleum / DARK STEEL
Normally do 2 coats, but sometimes certain pieces need a 3rd coat.

Read Label – but I usually am working on other blasters, so I let it rest about 1/2hr to an hour. Use your pinky tip on an area that may not be seen & gently touch the paint. If it's still sticky, let it set another ½ hr. Or put a fan on it – in a well-Ventilated area! :)

I have other pieces that need to be painted, so am going to put Steel pieces in a different box, that need another coat.

Next colour will be the medium hue – Brass.

I usually let every rest for about 12-24hrs, before I start working on the detailing.

DETAILING

FOLKART Acrylics & a collection of paint brushes.

I use silver Chrome nail polish for the scarring, but if you don't have it, can always use a chrome or metallic acrylic paint, like the one above. Will have to add at least 2 coats, to get the brilliance of the nail polish. But it depends on what you are going for.

Top one I hadn't started detailing, yet the bottom one – Detailing is done.

Detailing all done. Now for the 2-3 coats of semi-gloss clear.

So while those are getting clear coated – am going to work on the detailing on drum & trigger.

Once everything cleared coated are ready to put everything back together. :)

I use a little Plumbers Silicone Grease – in case I
accidentally painted over the edges of the trigger, which will cause issues, like sticking, or the hammer won't catch.

You have probably noticed that I have an old shirt or sock under the blaster. The cutting board I have is very hard & I do this to avoid possibly scrapping off the paint & it also keeps the blaster from sliding around.

I leave an orange area somewhere at the front of the blaster, so it can be used for Cosplay, they are fully functional, so they can also be used to Wars :)

Almost done – now for the grip – Athletic tape – hee hee - I usually order from Amazon, finding it more difficult to find at Dick's, I've looked.

So I was mentioning about the weather & humidity...this is what happens if the conditions aren't almost perfect...you can see the wrinkling around the trigger hole & around the one screw.